by Charles NeilSlant Front Desk
by Charles Neil
The slant front desk I like to build is a little more 'Southern' style than your typical slant front. One major difference is the top of the desk, it has visible dove tails and applied molding around the perimeter that creates an overhang, something that I like a lot and is my own design.
Through the years I have built many of these desks and find they are a lot simpler than they look....once you break the build into stages. I systematically approach the build, starting with a story board and it seems that in no time at all, the desk carcass is standing and then it is time to get on with the detail work.
Let's get to the build!
Gluing Up the Panels
The sides and interior writing surface are glued up panels. The sides are about 20" wide x 36 5/8" tall. I always glue up larger. Trying to glue up to exact size is tough and this is another reason I don't do 'cut lists.'
Let's talk about gluing up panels for a moment. I always look to utilize the straight grains for the seam, NOT the cathedral grain. The outside grains will hide the seam much better. I do a lot of flipping and flopping and looking for the best match before I glue up the panel.
The sides in this desk are two boards so only one glue seam. Note that when I glue it up, I always alternate the clamps, up-down-
up. This equalizes the pressure. Cloamp pressure will compress the wood over its width, it's a fact. Ever glue up a panel and have the clamps tight, next morning they are much looser? It's the compression, it
will return, but it does shrink a little. Also, use cauls or strips of scrap along the edges to prevent damaging the edge of the panels.
When I sized the panels, I left them 20 3/8" or so because I cut sliding dovetails all the way across and I know that some chip-out can result at the outer edges.
I stayed extra wide then cut to final size after the dove tails are cut. Then I know it's clean, smooth and ready to go to the final size at the last minute and I have room to adjust
if I need to.
The Drawer Dividers
My drawer dividers are 7/8" thick as are the sides and the writing surface, or as close as I can get to that
size. I want them the same size. Most folks just cut the dividers, I take it a step farther. In this case,
I backed them up with some hard maple. The reason is simple - I have often seen these sag or twist over time,
by doing the split/glue thing, I eliminate the dividers' ability to sag. First the grains are opposing, meaning
one piece wants to bow up, the other down and secondly, I have a glue seam that isn't going to want to
flex as a solid piece. I have done this for years and never had it fail. I glued them up thick and then
processed them nice and straight, either using the jointer or by running them through the table saw on edge.
I then plane or sand them to final size. I prefer sanding them with a drum sander but the planer will do well.
Just always be sure they are extra long so if you get "snipe" (where the planer dips out the end) you can cut it off.
Sanders don't snipe.
Once everything is glued up, I use the drum sander and sand everything to final thickness. If you don't have a sander, then planing to thickness before glue-up is the way. Again, leave extra length if you have a snipe problem or plane it in a long board so you only have to deal with it on the ends and not on all of the sections.
When I was doing my glue-up I als re-sawed some stock for the 'pigeon holes'. I re-sawed it to approximately 1/2" as I want 3/8" and 5/16" thick material for final sizes. I clamped them back-to-back with what was the interior of the wood now on the outside. I did it early so it could acclimate and stay as flat as possible. It will stay in clamps until I am ready to use it, then I will plane it to thickness. If at any point you are to final thickness on any of the panels and they are out of clamps, put them in plastic bags or cover them to prevent cupping. Remember, what typically causes cupping is wood drying on one side at a different rate than the other. If you leave a panel laying flat on a bench, air only gets to one side, the top, and it will dry more than the bottom, causing it to 'draw' or pull, and then it cups.
Sliding Dove Tails for Drawer Dividers
After everything was processed and my sliding dovetails were cut, I was ready to start cutting some mortises
and tenons for the drawer runners. I used a 14 degree 3/4" dovetail bit and 1/2" up-cut spiral bit to cut the
sliding dove tails. I first ran the 1/2" spiral cut to remove the majority of the wood, then followed with the
dove tail bit. When I did this, I also used a simple jig as well as router bushings. The first cut with the spiral
was 1/4" deep and then I ran the dovetail bit at 5/16". These depths have always done well for me. It leaves
plenty of meat in the 7/8" sides as well as on the ends of the dividers.
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The dividers finished out at 2 3/8"wide. That width, dove tailed and glued into the sides make a super strong joint. I've never seen it fail.
The drawer runners are let into the case sides across the width and mortised and tenoned into the front and back divider but otherwise, lay flat in the sliding dove tail. At the back they sit in a mortise and tenon in the rear divider but are able to move. This is something I came up with through the years and works really well for expansion and contraction. Most dovetail only the front and back dividers and then screw or nail the runners. I do it all the way across. Think about it, those sliding dovetails will allow the case to expand and contract but prevent them from cupping or warping. All of these dovetails make for a super strong case.
One thing ytou will need to be sure of is that your dovetails fit well. Tapping them into place is what you want. Beating the devil out of them isn't. Spending some time setting up to cut them correctly is a wise move. It's often moving the jig the thickness of a piece of paper that will make the difference. Too loose and you're starting over, too tight, a sharp cornered file or rasp and in the long ones, a good rabbet ploane and the rasp, you will be able to 'tweak' a little if needed.
Assuming I blew it and in cutting across the case I cut the slot out of square or something, could I fix it? Yes, a simple and strong “quick fix” would be some good ole auto body filler and a re-cut. On the tenon ends (pins) a piece of thin veneer glued on in the same grain direction and a re-cut, I’m good. How do I know these repairs work? I ain’t telling’ ya, but I know.
The next step is to do the mortises in the back of the dividers and then do the tenons on the drawer runners and get the case put together,
as well as get the top dovetailed on. Here you can see that the case is assembled, the top is dovetailed and ready to install, and the drawer stock is cut to size and ready to dovetail.
The biggest thing to remember for the drawer dividers s that the drawer runners are glued at the front only, and they float in the rear mortise, with a space provided
so the case can expand and contract without issue. Very important.
The writing surface is also only glued in the front, but could be glued all the way because it is two boards and the grain is running in the same direction. However,
trying to get it in place with glue all the way down the dovetail isn’t an easy task. I wax the tail slot about 4” from the front to the back, and make a scrap slot so I can run it over
the pin before I try to install it to insure it fits well. Again, the whole key to this is taking the time to do a good, accurate set-up for making the dovetails. The beauty of this is
a superstrong square case that will endure for many generations. Dovetails are the strongest joint in woodworking, the second-strongest being the mortise & tenon. This employs both.
I confess, while it’s a lot of work, I do enjoy both the challenge and the final result.
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The writing surface is also installed using sliding dovetails as well as the upright dividers.
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Above: Floating Desk Bottom and the Top of Case Dovetail Pins.
Drawers, Moulding and Base
Now to the drawers/moulding and base. One thing you will note, I processed my drawer stock and left it thick by about 3/32” and a little oversize after the material is planed. I like to let it have a chance to acclimate and if it’s going to move, let it do so, then come down to the final size just prior to use. The issue is that when you take a piece of kiln dried hardwood and plane the “crust” off, it’s going to dry further, and that causes movement. As I have told you many times, it’s like peeling the crust off a loaf of bread and letting it sit out. It will dry to a uniform consistency, and that’s what we want.
My next step was to get the drawers made. I re-sawed all of the drawer fronts, and cut them out of a really nice piece
of 8/4 cherry, so they will all be mirror images of each other. The drawers were simply dovetailed, glued together, and placed in their respective section of the desk. Then it was
time to scrape and clean everything up so far before moving on.
After that, I routed the moulding and started making the ogee bracket feet profiles for the desk. I ran the moulding
using my Signature Profile bit, makes it super easy. Then I simply round over the top of the foot material with a 1” round-over bit. Then comes the part I really enjoy -
I hand plane/scrape it all into the profile I want and then it’s ready to cut the feet.
On these, the bottom of the foot is narrower than it will be in the final product - I will plane it to be about 3/8” tall after I miter the feet and cut the shape out.
I keep the top face of the round over and the foot bottom level so that when I do the miter on the table saw, it sits level, or you can use a miter saw.
The moulding will go around the top of the desk, just like the Keeping Chest, adding an overhang profile. Something not typical of slant fronts. Most have a square or boxy look, but I don’t care for that - I like a little “finished” look. The wider moulding is notched to go on the bottom of the case and is attached from underneath and isn’t attached to the sides, thus no visible means of attachment and it will again allow those sides to expand and contract freely. Additionally, I finished the moulding separately from the case so all that end grain is sealed and is a very nicely finished and sealed panel.
There was a lot of prep work for the next stage. I processed material for the backs, got the drawer bottoms made (solid maple) , and processed material for the pigeon holes. All of that does require a bit of time. Re-sawing and allowing the wood to acclimate, planing, sizing, and making sure everything is where it needs to be.
Next, I completed the “innerds” for the lid support. It is basically a vertical slide that supports the fall front. You will note I created a space between the runners,
this is done so a “stop” can be attached to the slide and the space between the upper and lower guides provided a slot for it to run in. Always make sure you have enough travel to be
able to extend the slide enough to support the lids. I also used sliding dovetails for the upright divider.
Before installing the runners, I oiled the inside of the case as well as the runners. I want some finish in there and it will be hard to get to after assembly. Despite what you’ve heard, you need to finish both sides, that’s a fact. I used Waterlox on this desk.
I also finished the drawer fronts and put them on and all of the drawers are squared away. Note how nice and flat to the case they fit, as well as the mirror image grain.
It’s all in the details. The desk is now standing and waiting for final details.
My next step is to install the hardware and the locks, and complete the pigeon holes. There is definitely more work to them
than it seems. They are all done out of 5/16 stock, except where the prospect door will be - there it is ½”. I need the heavier wood to install the hinges and lock. I have done all
kinds of pigeon holes - serpentine, real elaborate, carved fans - but this setup is a simple one that really looks nice. I used an adverse wood on the drawer fronts and the little raised
panel in the door. I found a piece of “Quilted” maple I had that had some nice vertical “blistering” going on, so I chose to use that in this piece. I oiled the maple with some Waterlox
to bring out the incredible “chatoyance” (holographic) figure, then I sanded it back like a trace coat and used a clear finish. Since oil is amber in color, by sanding it back I removed
some from the surface and then the “pure clear” highlights the figure even more. For my finish, I used a waterbase clear. Waterbases are pure clear and remain so.
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Next I turned the column for the small vertical drawers on the left & right of the door, typically called “stamp drawers”, they are considered a Hidden Compartment by some, but most know to look for them. I have often made small boxes that sit in the back of the pigeon holes and appeared as the backs, or put a box, similar to the pigeon holes, in the back of the “door” compartment, much like match boxes. The main one on this desk is the one hidden behind the bottom drawers. When you tell people to try and find them, the “stamp drawers” are always found, the ones at the back of the pigeon holes on occasion are found, but the one with the sliding divider in the back of the drawers isn’t ever found - well, until now.
For hardware, I chose “antiqued”, except for the locks. It’s not possible for those because the antiquing solution will damage the internal steel workings. I always wipe a thin coat of wax on the steel box of the lock, as well as put a few drops of oil on the inside, just to be sure nothing ever rusts. I have a little “antiquing” trick for the locks - a good steel wooling and a light wipe with some gun-bluing, and you’re good to go. You can simply let them tarnish on their own as well. As always, I get the hardware from Horton Brass.
The other thing that is often an issue is getting the hinge holes drilled in the center. Self-centering bits are super for this. But here is the bad news - this is considered a “Period” piece. You don’t use phillips or square drive screws, it’s just not acceptable. On my construction (ie. feet mouldings) where they aren’t seen, I do use the square heads, but I always use a little glaze or something to “hide” them.
The biggest problem with slotted brass screws is they break easily and are a pain. You have to use a regular screwdriver. HOWERVER, there is definitely a huge difference in the quality of the brass screws, and just like steel screws, there are soft & cheap or tempered & strong. You get what you pay for. Use a screw lubricant such as Bees Wax or a toilet bowl ring.
This was a desk I built for a client, but by request we are going to start at the beginning in our next Mastering Woodworking series, which begins October 14, 2010. If you’re comfortable building it based on what I’ve written here, go for it. If you’d like to learn step-by-step and follow along as I build one from Cherry, then I highly recommend you get subscribed right away so you