Dining Table Projectr/>/>
by Charles Neil
Once I had the glue up processed through the drum sander to 100 grit I made two patterns.
I made a 1/4 pattern and then used it to router cut a full pattern. Then using this pattern, I cut the maple to shape and automagically had a table top!
Now comes a little more of a challenge. I need an apron, curved to match the ends, but I need to step it back 1" to give a good overhang so I will need to reduce the pattern by 1" (overhang) and then the thickness of the apron as well, in this case, another inch for a total reduction of 2".
I used a wing cutter that cut 1/2" deep and by reducing it 1/2", then using the reduced cut as a bearing guide I reduced the pattern. I did this four (4) times for a perfect 2" reduction. I could have simply made another pattern with the compass, but this was just too quick and easy.
Next, with the second pattern reduced as well, I added some filler pieces and routed them to match the curve. Since I needed a 3" apron, adding two layers of 3/4" MDF to the already existing 1 1/2", I had a 3" bending form. Some tape to prevent glue from sticking and so bottom stops all is ready to bend.
Notice I added some extensions to the pattern as you always want to add length for a bend, especially a laminated bend as the wood will slide as it's bent.
Next I re-sawed some poplar. The 1" apron will use eight 1/8" pieces. I used 6 pieces of poplar and 2 pieces of tiger maple on the outside. The poplar will not be visible except from the back side as we will also make a 'bead that will cover the bottom and sits proud of the apron.
I used some plastic resin glue that I got from Monster Woodshop because of it's holding strength, rigid glue line and its open time to allow me time to get it all clamped, and it was excellant.
There is about 1/4" spring back, not much at all and I can pull that into position with no issue when it is attached to the top.
I cut the apron at 3 1/4" tall to give me room to plane and sand the edges clean.