So now the customer wants to dye the legs/apron rather than paint the legs/apron. I am going to have my work cut out on this one because the poplar legs are all over the place on color and different pieces of wood glued up for the blank. I let them know this was going to be difficult and can not guarantee how it will all look in the end...but they want to go forth...so I am going to do what they want. They are paying.
Had I known this in the beginning...I would have chosen maple for the legs and base as the color is much more even and easier to finish. Lots of blotch control is going to be the key here...I am going to mask it and just try and get a universal dye.
You can see here why it is going to be a challenge...different color wood and one spot that has a nickel size timbermate patch from what the router bit tore it out...at least the aprons are decent coloring.
Here are the aprons cut to size before tenons and profiles are cut. I took care over a couple days to slowly plane down and stabilize the wood overnight. I have been left with very nice straight pieces of wood
This is the setup I used on the table saw so that I could cut repeatable tenons. I just butted the wood against the hard side of the feather board and then worked my way back.
Each apron was marked to a corresponding leg mortise and all the tenons were then rounded to fit in the rounded hole mortises. This was done with the Japanese rasp, a technique I learned from Charles...works very well and cuts quick. The chisel was used to clean up the very bottom where the rasp would not get.
The fit is nice and tight, and while are of them were not perfect fitting on the ends. The edges were.
One of the test aprons I used to test my skills before moving on to the real pieces. The pic also shows detail of the beading bit on the bottom. The slot for the table top hold down is on the back.
Beading bit I used. MLCS #5534
The cherry top has been stabilizing for two weeks with a little bit planed off every couple days and then clamped over night. Everything has remained very stable.
I have sanded the legs/apron to 100 then wet it all to raise the grain. I then sanded 120 and 150. I think I will stop with 150 and start assembly. I am going to use 2 coats of CN BLotch Control and go for it.
One thing I have to mention are my 2 new best friends...my sanders. I have 2 three year old Milwaukee ROS and to be honest....they just don't work and have not for quite a while, yet I always just made do. My 12 year old Makita sander still works but it care more about hogging than leaving a nice finish. So I invested some of the money made from this commission back into tools and picked up these two sanders. I wish I had done this sooner because both of these sanders are so superior to what I have ever used.
The 6" Metabo SXE 450 (SEXY for short) is an absolute beast, but is also very refined as needed. It was this or the big Festool. I choose this based on some European recommendations and am extremely pleased with it and the savings. I used this with 80 grit to contour sand the legs and take the machine marks out of everything. It has variable speed, little vibration and is very quiet. Definitely a well made tool no doubt where it is not only variable speed but variable scratch patterns.
This 5" Bosch 20VSK was bought to replace the 2 milwaukees. It works better than they are did and the dust collection is fantastic from the included HEPA filter box. It also came wit han adapter that allows it to hook up to my vac and the bonus is the adapter also fits the Metabo.